The title reflects woodworking as a hobby, not a profession. The occupational carpentry is almost exactly the opposite of the adjective in the title, because the pressure to produce quickly in order for it to pay the bill is high. Therefore, for the purposes of this article, we will insist on using hobbies.
Many people rarely consider starting a project. If you are using plans, bills of materials and cut lists in the woodworking magazine, this is fine, but when you plan on your own, this lack of planning often makes the project very difficult to manage somewhere in the middle. More wood needs to be added, or, more commonly, the last piece of wood needs to be shrunk to complete. The project became less interesting because of the measurement adjustments made to the original plan to keep the modified parts in line with each other. It's a bit like playing chess with a saw. It's expected to take three measurements because of a deviation you made before three steps.
What I want to accomplish here is to list a series of events that need to be taken when you move from a canned project in woodworking books and magazines to your own project planning.
Casual woodwork begins with a functional thing [shelf, table, bench, box, table] or something meaningful [toy, artwork, frame] or a combination of both. The idea can be inspired by looking at carpentry magazines, seeing something in the model home, or the needs that exist in your own home.
In most cases the concepts are outlined. Traditionally, this was done on the back of an envelope or partially used napkin, so be sure to have some lying around. Once you have the sketch, you must decide how big you want this thing. Usually, this depends on the available space or the expected functionality. Stick to our motto, "Measure twice, cut once" and create a rough size chart. If this is a functional part [table, cabinet, etc.], be sure to keep it reasonably close to the standard size, including table height, knee hole, kick space, cabinet height, rail and sill width, file drawer size, etc. You are very happy.
So far, this concept has been developed to narrow the required surfaces [paints, stains, varnishes, oils] and to choose the type of wood that fits the project, budget and finish. There are a lot of woods and finishes to choose from today, which may be a good exercise.
Now that the type of wood and finish has been determined, it's time to decide what joints you will make [assuming you don't make a boomerang or a hollowed out canoe or other one-piece thing]. Considerations include strength, the look you want to achieve, your equipment and features, and the time you can invest. This may be one of the more laborious psychological exercises due to various options. The appearance of the plug or button, the clean lines of hidden biscuits or dowel joints, the strength of the dovetail and the internal roundness, the simplicity of the nails and glue. Everyone has their own position and you have to decide for yourself.
In addition to the joints, hardware must be planned. Based on the hardware, you must resize the drawing to accommodate the gap between the drawer rails, the extra half inch for the lap and stage joints, the hidden hinge overlap, the insertion depth of the frame and panel door panels, and more. You must also consider reducing the depth and radius of the router profile to ensure that your inventory is thick enough to mature your concept as planned.
Create a final dimension map that allows all joint and hardware considerations and prepare a cut list from the map. Note: This diagram is not necessarily drawn to scale and does not necessarily look professional in any way. If it is proportional, it helps to visualize the process, but the really important aspect of the diagram is the recording of measurements. Don't worry about the appearance of the drawing - this is not what you are going to show.
Now, finally, we can go to our timber supplier and choose the actual wood we will use. This is not the place you want to save time. For the part of the project to be displayed, especially for projects where natural wood is intended as a design feature, special attention should be paid to selecting the grain and natural attributes that best suit your concept. If you want to save money on "three good" wood, make sure the width is large enough and the selected part has enough margin to get the length required for each piece. The finished surface is measured to the beginning of the original edge. For frames, splints and carcasses look for straight, unknotted parts. Deformation and distortion can be overcome, but they make the whole project less interesting.
With this level of preparation and sharp tools, the project will be well completed, and the finished product will bring you satisfaction, years of service, and sometimes even a precious family heirloom. Note: The state of the heirloom is usually applied to tables, well-made toys or rocking chairs. Do not set too high expectations for the laundry rack.
Orignal From: Woodworking - creativity, relaxation and eternity
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